2005 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

This estate started picking in 2006 on the first legal date, as freshness and acidity are prized here. According to cellarmaster Vincent Munier, grape sugars in some parcels were actually higher than those of the previous year, even if 2006 generally brought less phenolic maturity (and 2007 here was even higher in sugar "across the board," according to Munier). As in recent years, I was a bit underwhelmed by a couple of the lesser offerings here, but at the level of the top crus these wines are wonderfully perfumed and penetrating.

This estate picked early in 2005, beginning on the day of the ban (September 15) with potential alcohols ranging from 12.5% to 13.8%, according to cellarmaster Vincent Munier, whose light touch in the cellar has provided continuity here following the departure of Pierre Nawrocki following the harvest of 2004. Said Munier: "In quality of material and ageworthiness, 2005 is like 1990. Everything was ripe, and there was really nothing special that we had to do." Munier reported crop levels of 38 or 39 hectoliters per hectare for the estate's grand crus and about 42 to 45 for the village wines. As a rule, the village wines age in 10% new oak, the premier crus get 25% and the grand crus 50%. The top 2005s here will be stunning. (Atherton Wine Imports, Atherton, CA; Scott Levy Selections, Atlanta, GA; Bayfield Importing, Manhasset, NY) Also recommended: Chambolle-Musigny (86), Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Murgers (86).