2009 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
France
Clos Vougeot
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
00
2014 - 2029
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"It's not the vintage of the century," said Thibault Liger-Belair about 2009. "There will be a lot of wines to drink young. The challenge was to have freshness, and it's not just a question of acidity. We also had a range of phenolic maturity and some wines are too fat. But since the end of the summer, they're showing more tension and length." Liger-Belair was one of several winemakers I visited in November who described 2009 as a rather fragile vintage, even if his top cuvees appear to offer considerable aging potential. Incidentally, his favorite vintage of the recent past is 2006, "for its vivacity and energy, and for its definition of terroir. "The 2008s are in the same style but have a bit less flesh than the '06s," he noted. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)
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