1996 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru

Robert and Serge Groffier chilled the musts following the '97 harvest in order to do a week of pre-fermentation cold maceration, and then benefitted from long, slow malos, which did not end until early summer. Then, instead of racking, they left their wines on their lees without stirring until mid-October, injecting a bit of SO2 to reduce the risk of volatile acidity and to preserve color and freshness. As in recent years, I tasted these wines in November from stainless steel tanks, where they were awaiting early bottling. These amazingly sweet, silky wines, among the stars of the vintage, may in some instances match the Groffiers' extraordinary '96s, which were bottled without fining or filtration in December of '97 and January of '98. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; and The Stacole Co., Boca Raton, FL)

The Groffiers have been on a hot streak during the '90s, and 1996 looks like another stunning set of wines. Grape sugars were a bit higher than those of '95, and the Groffiers did a bit less pigeage to avoid getting bitter stem components. In November, the '96s had already been in tank for a month, and despite their being difficult to taste due to the chill of the Groffiers' garage, it was clear that this vintage will give early pleasure. The '95s are knockouts, thanks to a very successful "soft" bottling. These wines are much more expressive early than the '93s, which were more reticent and marked by the oak at the outset. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; and The Stacole Co., Boca Raton, FL)