2017 Meursault Les Charmes-Dessus 1er Cru
France
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
00
2022 - 2039
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“Two thousand seventeen is very good for sure, but it’s too early to say if it’s great,” said Jean-Baptiste Bouzereau in early June. “The 2014s are finer and more delicate, as well as more saline than the ‘17s, but the ‘17s are every bit as pure.” Bouzereau started harvesting on August 30. There was substantial rain that night, and again on the night of September 2, but by then the family had brought in a good portion of their premier cru grapes. (“The rain made the pressing easier,” Bouzereau noted, referring to the softening effect of the precipitation on the grape skins.) Potential alcohol levels ranged from 12.6% to 13.2%, which Bouzereau described as the range he prefers. He lightly chaptalized the less-ripe cuvées to no more than 13%.
Bouzereau bought a more flexible and easily programmable new press in time for the 2017 vinification and kept more of the bourbes in 2017 as he began with very clean grapes due to the well-aerated clusters. He told me that the ‘17s were pure and precise even before the malos, which generally finished between January and May.
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