2006 Barbera d'Alba Trevigne
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Clerico is constructing a huge new winemaking facility outside Monforte (the locals refer to the site as "ground zero") but is taking his time doing so and has no apparent plans to increase his production significantly. He was in fine form in September, and showed me a splendid collection of wines. Clerico describes 2004 as "a beautiful year" but claims to prefer 2005, as he picked everything but his Pajana barbera, which he sold off, prior to the prolonged and damaging rainy period in early October. "But the 2004s will get higher scores," he predicted. Clerico has reduced the percentage of new barriques he uses to age Barolo from 100% as recently as 2001 to 70% or 80% since the '04 vintage. He explained that he thought the oak aromas were blocking the perfume of nebbiolo, but he was also concerned that it has been difficult to find the right oak and the right level of toast. In recent years, his fermentations in rotary fermenters have also been longer and slower, resulting in better-quality tannins. (Marc de Grazia; numerous importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd. , San Rafael, CA)
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