2020 Riesling Bacharacher Kloster Fürstental Kabinett feinherb

Randolf Kauer largely sidestepped excessive must weights in 2020, even managing genuine Kabinett levity in a dry Kloster Fürstental of just 11% alcohol. But acid levels reacted irregularly, and in some locations were well lower than normal. “The must weights didn’t increase much after September,” he noted, and the bulk of harvest only took place in the first half of October, when the Kauers felt as though flavors had significantly improved. Randolf Kauer reminded me that their having finished up on October 17, 2020, represents the earliest conclusion to a harvest in the estate’s history. Picking in 2019 commenced significantly sooner but finished up two calendar days later, with must weights generally higher. “Twenty nineteen is a bit more of a heavy metal type,” observed Kauer, laughing. “Really, both gave super-clean fruit” – albeit the 2019 only after suitable selection – “but 2019 is just a bit boring, while 2020 is more exciting [spannender],” he concluded, cupping his hand to his mouth as if reluctantly revealing a secret. While I tasted most of the Kauer 2020s (with only a few 2019s), I have not attempted to catalog those that are missing. Every wine that I tasted on the occasion of this most recent visit is reviewed below. (For more about this estate, consult the introductions to my accounts of its vintage 2014–2018 wines.)