2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2025 - 2035
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2020 - 2050
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This recent charity dinner at Saison was easily the finest meal I have had there and also one of my best dinners of 2018, period. The evening came together as a charity lot that was auctioned off at the most recent La Festa del Barolo to benefit children’s oncology at The Mount Sinai Hospital. Saison donated dinner and I contributed the wines from my cellar. It was a spectacular night of food, wine and conversation, all for a great cause.
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2020 - 2040
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The top 2010 Red Burgundies are now virtually impossible to find, so it was a real treat to taste these nine gorgeous, reference-point wines together. The goal of this seminar, which I curated at Pebble Beach Food & Wine, was to highlight a number of Burgundy’s finest terroirs ands most representative producers. I was joined on the panel by Master Sommeliers Larry Stone and Alan Murray, and winemaker Rajat Parr. All of the wines showed exceptionally well in what turned out to be a fabulous morning filled with great Burgundy and equally stimulating conversation. For more background on the wines, readers might enjoy this short video I shot just before the tasting. As Burgundy fans know, the 2010 growing season did not get off to a great start. A devastating winter frost killed a number of vines, especially in the low, flat-lying sectors close to the Route Nationale. Poor weather during flowering caused significant issues with coulure and millerandage. Conditions improved markedly during the last few weeks of the season, always the most critical time of the year. The 2010s combine excellent maturity levels from naturally occurring low yields with lively acidity that is the result of a long, cool growing season. Most importantly of all, the wines are highly site-specific. At their best, the 2010s are stunning wines that capture the essence of what makes Burgundy so thrilling. For more on 2010, readers might enjoy taking a look back at my initial thoughts on the vintage and wines.
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2025 - 2045
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My visit with Eric Rousseau was one of the highlights of my fall trip. The 2010s are fabulous from top to bottom. Rousseau started picking on September 22. The fruit saw about four days of cold soak followed by a cuvaison that lasted anywhere from 15 to 21 days, depending on the wine. I was equally thrilled with the 2009s I tasted from bottle. I will have more on those wines in our April issue.
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Eric Rousseau destems virtually all of his fruit but noted that with his gentler destemmer he has gotten more uncrushed grapes into the fermenter since the '07 and '08 vintages. This gives more reductive wines in the early going, but less of an oxidative crushed berry character. Rousseau reported that production in 2010 was down 30% to 40% from 2009 levels. He harvested on the early side, beginning on September 22 with potential alcohol levels between 12% and 13.1%. Rousseau praises the vintage for its bracing quality, for its intensity and purity of fruit, and for its fine tannins. While he believes that the 2010s should last longer than the 2009s, he thinks that the '09s will also shut down in the bottle. The 2010 malos finished between May and July, and the wines were racked at the end of July. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY
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