1996 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
00
2021 - 2040
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2019 - 2032
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"Nineteen ninety-seven was a very difficult, delicate vintage," says Charles Rousseau. The wines required acidification but almost no chaptalization. Rousseau is not especially concerned about the effects of adding acid. "The first vintage I acidified was 1980, and it still my favorite," he pointed out. Rousseau top '96s have turned out extremely well. It's a vintage with high extract, noted Rousseau, like '90 and '88. Even the gregarious Rousseau, who would rather discuss the state of French cuisine than his own wines, admits to being overwhelmed by the current worldwide thirst for Burgundy. "Today we have more visitors than bottles to sell them."
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In the past I have referred to the levage here as inflexible, and wondered whether Charles Rousseau practice of multiple rackings and rather late bottling (the better cuvees are generally bottled in two installments: the first part during the second June and July, the second part a couple months later). However, the uncommonly sociable Rousseau assured me on my most recent visit that he takes firm measures to keep the wines fresh, including the use of substantial carbonic gas and keeping the wine on its fine lees until the second racking. Rousseau generally favors vintages with strong acid and tannin structure: he believes that his '96s will be for drinking earlier than the '95s but will still prove to be vins de garde Thus, he adds, the wines will be difficult to judge in their youth. The grapes were quite firm at the time of the '96 harvest, Rousseau points out, and the skins were reasonably thick. They were also small enough to permit good concentration, Rousseau maintains. He picked relatively late, but his fruit still had strong acidity, and a lower pH than in the previous year.
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