2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2023 - 2045
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2023 - 2035
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The team here did a lot of triage in the vines at the beginning of September, said Bruno Clair, to protect the fruit against rot and to speed up the ripening process, as the grapes were still green. In the end, he told me, "2013 did not reach the same ripeness as 2014 did, and ripeness came from loss of juice in the grapes rather than from photosynthesis." Two thousand fourteen conveys terroir character while 2013 is more marked by the "historic climate" of the year, he added. Clair began harvesting in 2013 on October 3.
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2021 - 2035
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It's always a pleasure to sit down and taste with Bruno Clair and his longtime winemaker, Philippe Brun, both of whom are a treasure trove of experience and knowledge. Clair brought in his fruit beginning on October 7, which only has parallels in the estate's recent history with 1978 and 1980, where the harvests started on October 10 and 12. It's true that 2008 was almost as late as 2013, except that in 2013 the last few days of ripening did not add a meaningful amount of concentration as they did in 2008. Clair adds that sugars alone are not a measure of quality, as evidenced by the 1991s, many of which are more complete than their 1990 counterparts. Of course, the issue with any late-ripening year is that the days are shorter as the season progresses, so there are meaningful differences between the heat of August and that of September. As if the bad flowering and early start to the year was not enough, Clair's vineyards in Savigny-les-Beaune and Pernand-Vergelesses were all damaged by hail. According to Clair, the Charlemagne was more skin than juice, clearly a far from favorable situation. I tasted the 2013s from barrel, after they had been racked. Where the wines don't carry the signatures of hail they are quite pretty. Philippe Brun adds that while the terroirs are well marked in 2013, the wines should be enjoyed before the 2012s.
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