2000 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru
France
Chambertin Clos De Bèze
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
00
2016 - 2030
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It is always fascinating to taste Rousseau’s Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chambertin side-by-side, as they are flagship wines for the domaine and also reference points for Burgundy more broadly. These eight wines set the stage for an animated discussion of terroir, vintages and a handful of other subjects that are near and dear to the hearts of Burgundy lovers.
My favorite of the four vintages in this tasting was 1991. “Ninety ninety-one was a bit of a forgotten vintage at the time,” Rousseau explained. “It came after 1988, 1989 and 1990, all of which were strong. Perhaps journalists thought Burgundy couldn’t possibly have four excellent vintages in a row.” I also liked the 1988s quite a bit, although in my view, the wines are ready drink and offer little upside for improvement at this stage because the fruit is starting to dry out. The 2000s were both quite expressive, although without the visceral thrill of the very best years. Admittedly, that is a very high bar. In any other setting, Rousseau’s 2000s would have probably stolen the show. The only vintage that was somewhat disappointing was 2011. I liked the wines more from barrel and bottle a few years ago, enough to buy them. On this afternoon, though, the two 2011s were quite closed, which is not surprising for Burgundies of this pedigree tasted in their adolescence, but I also picked up on slightly vegetal notes that neither wine showed in their youth. It will be interesting to see how the 2011s behave over the coming years and decades.
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Charles Rousseau told me that 2001 is "less good than 2000," as the newer vintage has a bit less structure. But it's a bit early to judge the real quality of 2000." Today, Rousseau likes 1999 and 2002 best among recent vintages. He was excited about 2002 in November. Grape sugars went as high as 13.7% in the Clos de Beze," he told me. August was not wet but it wasn't hot either, with the result that the 2002 fruit retained good acidity." Rousseau, incidentally, was one of several Burgundy growers who told me in November that he clearly prefers his 1991s to his 1990s today.
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"There were the beginnings of rot from July onward," said Corinne Rousseau of the 2000 growing season, "but we did a lot of green harvesting and then severe selection in the vines at the time of harvest. At first we thought 2000 would be a simply fruity vintage for drinking young," she added, "but the wines have been developing more structure as they age, and it now appears that they have more backbone than years like '92 and '97." In fact, these 2000s were showing gloriously the day I sampled them, as aromatically complex as any set of 2000s I tasted in November. Rousseau describes the fruit in '99 as black cherry, while in '00 it tends toward raspberry.