2005 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru

Serge Groffier describes the family's young 2006s as "combining the roundness of 2000 with the rigor and nerve of 2001." The estate harvested on the early side, beginning on September 22, and the typical cru here is now 13.5% alcohol after about a half-degree of chaptalization. I enjoyed the freshness of these wines in November, when, once again, I tasted the new crop of wines from floating-top stainless steel tanks in the Groffiers' frigid garage. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; and Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA; also imported by Atherton Wine Imports, Atherton, CA)

Serge Groffier noted that grape sugars were even higher here in 2004 than in 2005: in the mid-13s, vs. 12.9% to 13.2% in 2005. I found the new wines-as usual, in floating-top tanks in the Groffiers' chilly garage-difficult to taste in November. But they are classic 2005 in style: rich, powerful and a bit youthfully sullen. In comparison, the 2004s in bottle were more pliant and expressive. Thanks to their tireless work in the vines and their normally low crop levels, the Groffiers frequently outperform in years when their neighbors struggle to ripen their fruit. By the way, the 2005 Passetoutgrains promises to be about as good as this category of wine gets. (A Peter Vezan selection; importers include Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; and Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; also imported by Atherton Wine Imports, Atherton, CA)