2003 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru

Always candid, Bernard Mollard reported that 2004 is "not exceptional but it's frank, upright and pure-a good year." He told me his grapes were healthy, and that oidium was not a serious problem in Chassagne-Montrachet. Potential alcohols were between 11.8% and 12.8%, and the wines have rounded out in barrel thanks to considerable lees stirring until the end of the malolactic fermentations (and, in a few cases, even later than that), but Mollard noted that the fermentations generally finished even drier than those in 2003. Mollard's 2003s are concentrated but often verge on exotic. He harvested on the late side, starting on August 30. Mollard believes the better 2003s will make decent mid-term agers. "We'll be able to drink and enjoy wines like Vergers and Virondot after seven or eight years," he predicted.

Bernard Mollard brought in his chardonnay between August 30 and September 3, taking advantage of what he described as more moderate temperatures:in the low 60s in the mornings and the upper 70s during the afternoons. By waiting we gained roundness and suppleness," he said. The vines were less stressed by then, and the wines of 2003 are extremely fat. "Mollard acidified the musts for the fermentations, then made some further adjustments after the malolactic fermentations finished. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington D. C. Ideal Wines, Medford MA