1996 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
France
Gevrey Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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"Un millesime sans angles " is how Sylvie Esmonin describes 1997. "But it was hard to extract color," she notes, "in contrast to 1996, when all we had to do was put the grapes into the fermenter." Esmonin pere et fille harvested early in '97, with grape sugars mostly in the 11.8%-12.3% range. The '97s received a higher percentage of new barrels than usual, no doubt a function of the small size of the crop. I asked Sylvie whether '97 or '96 displayed individual vineyard character more clearly. Her response: "If terroir is about power, then '96 shows the terroir better. But if it mainly about fruit, then '97 may have the edge." But she hastened to add that "1996 is perhaps the closest vintage to our ideal in many years: the wines are graceful without being small, powerful but elegant."
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The Esmonins did lots of saignee in '96 due to the high crop levels of this vintage. They then carried out a long cuvaison with less pigeage than usual as the coloring matter was easy to extract. In November, Sylvie Esmonin was still marveling over the ripeness of the 1997 grapes. She had the same concerns about very high sugars and low acids as many of her neighbors, but, as she put it, "1997 is so rich it can't be bad."
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