2016 Conero Riserva Grosso Agontano

The new releases I tasted along with Gianluca Garofoli were eye-opening, to say the least. Not only did they include the 2019 Podium, which can be placed amongst the top vintages ever produced of their flagship Verdicchio, but it also gave me a peek at the 2020 vintage through the wonderfully refreshing and crisp Serra del Conte, as well as a number of red wines in their range. One of the biggest issues I’ve always had with Marche reds is the overuse of new oak, but that’s not a problem at this address. Garofoli sources their Montepulciano from estate vineyards in the Monte Conero, where it grows in calcareous soils on hillside vineyards that gently slope down toward the sea. This is the most northern location in Italy that you’ll find a DOC Montepulciano which, combined with the poor soils and moderating influences of the Adriatic coast, produces fruit that is packed full of character. The 2016 Conero Riserva Grosso Agontano was a perfect example, and it’s a wine that I’d be happy to have aging in my cellar. The 2018 vintage isn’t as strong for the reds as it was for the whites, but the wines are still remarkably pretty.