2013 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru
Chambolle Musigny
Red
Pinot Noir
00
2019 - 2040
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00
2023 - 2038
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Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier told me that 2013 is "more vegetal than 2010, despite the negative connotation of 'vegetal'; but many people would probably say 'mineral' instead." Mugnier's 2013s offer a rare combination of concentrated, creamy fruit; relatively low pHs; and the spine for long aging.
00
2020 - 2033
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Frédéric Mugnier's 2013s are absolutely brilliant. The 2013s were racked in September, which is on the later side of things. In the past I have made the mistake of visiting Mugnier too early, just after the wines have been racked, and found wines in barrel that were at times awkward. This year, I visited the domaine towards the end of my trip, once the wines had been racked for about two months, and that made a huge difference. The 2013s are vivid, precise and crystalline; in other words they capture the purest essence of this cool, late harvest year marked by an exceptionally long growing season. Mugnier brought in his 2013s starting on October 5, just as disease pressure was beginning to mount, during what turned out to be a very compact harvest. The 2013s were vinified with fully destemmed fruit, while the percentage of new oak is quite low, both pretty typical of how the wines are made here these days.
00
2025 - 2039
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The picking window in Chambolle-Musigny was very narrow in 2013, said Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier, who started harvesting his large Clos de la Maréchale holding on October 5, then shifted to his fruit in Chambolle-Musigny on the 7th and 8th because he saw "threads of rot." Mugnier has never had a sorting table but instead relies on his pickers to do this work in the vineyards. He noted that the hang time on the vines was important in 2013: "Phenolic ripeness is not a matter of sun and heat but duration. The surprise for me is the silkiness and depth of the 2013s." Mugnier did the same winemaking as usual, which means a "long and soft fermentation." He told me he was not tempted to experiment with vendange entier because he wasn't sure about the ripeness of the skins and feared the effects of botrytis. Mugnier pointed out that pHs in 2013 were lower than average at around 3.5, and yields were 20% lower than in 2012, except for the Clos de la Maréchale, which was affected by hail in the earlier vintage. "The low yield was the key to quality in 2013," he said, adding that the 2012s should probably be drunk before the 2013s, as they are "easy, round and attractive" while the '13s have "a sharper edge."
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