2001 Barolo Percristina

Without question the most surprising 2001s I tasted were those of Domenico Clerico. I loved these wines when they were released, rated them highly and bought them for my own cellar. I tasted the 2001s with Domenico Clerico and his team during a visit in November 2011, and then opened the wines from my own cellar back in New York. Oddly, I found the wines from my cellar in better shape than the wines I tasted in Piedmont. Still, time has not been kind to Clerico's 2001s. I found all of the Baroli surprisingly forward and evolved. The tannins have softened some over the years, but now the fruit is dropping out and the wines are evolving rather quickly. The Langhe Rosso Arte, a 90% Nebbiolo/10% Barbera blend, is the wine that has aged best. And when the entry-level wine (Arte was the entry-level wine in 2001) has aged better than the top selections, there is a problem. Clerico was a long-time proponent of French oak, which he employed in very high levels until around 2005 or so. Maybe it was the toast levels. It's hard to say exacly. What is pretty clear is that the 2001s are evolving at a fast pace and aren't likely to improve much from here.

Clerico is constructing a huge new winemaking facility outside Monforte (the locals refer to the site as "ground zero") but is taking his time doing so and has no apparent plans to increase his production significantly. He was in fine form in September, and showed me a splendid collection of wines. Clerico describes 2004 as "a beautiful year" but claims to prefer 2005, as he picked everything but his Pajana barbera, which he sold off, prior to the prolonged and damaging rainy period in early October. "But the 2004s will get higher scores," he predicted. Clerico has reduced the percentage of new barriques he uses to age Barolo from 100% as recently as 2001 to 70% or 80% since the '04 vintage. He explained that he thought the oak aromas were blocking the perfume of nebbiolo, but he was also concerned that it has been difficult to find the right oak and the right level of toast. In recent years, his fermentations in rotary fermenters have also been longer and slower, resulting in better-quality tannins. (Marc de Grazia; numerous importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd. , San Rafael, CA)

Few producers' wines have given me as much pleasure over the years as those of Domenico Clerico. Based in Monforte, Clerico has been turning out spectacular Barolos since the mid-1980s. I find a spirituality and character in these wines that puts them in a class with few peers. The last few years have seen an evolution in Clerico's philosophy. He has gradually lengthened fermentation times and beginning with h is 2005s also backed off the 100% new oak, perhaps the one critic ism I have had of some wines in the past. For h is 2003 Barolos Clerico shortened the fermentation time by a few days. “Given that the grapes already had a lot of tannins, it was important not to over-extract,” says Clerico. “I used a high percentage of new oak for the Barolos. When we racked them, the wines aged in new oak turned out as I had hoped in that they were a little rounder than the wines aged in one-year old barrels. I am optim istic about 2003, the wines just need time for the tannins to soften. Look at what people said about the 1997s. The wines were supposed to fall apart, yet I think the best wines have held up beautifully.” Clerico fans can also look forward to a very prom ising series of Barolos for the 2004, 2005 and 2006 vintages. The 2006s will include a new Barolo made from purchased Serralunga fruit. Readers who want to learn more about the h istory of the property may want to check out my article in the Italy Report section of this site.