2012 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Grosses Gewächs

In 2004, Christian Witte assumed the helm at this estate, one of the venerable icons of the Rheingau. Visible to the eye from the Rhine to every passing visitor, Schloss Johannisberg's wines were already garnering critical praise in the time of Goethe and Beethoven. Most of the recent innovation has been little more than reinventing the past, be it by renewing some of the old casks, experimenting with wild yeast fermentations in the vineyards or--something Witte's predecessor would not do--calling the finest dry riesling of the vintage (in addition to Silberlack) a Grosses Gewächs. No one in the Rheingau is bottling finer riesling today in this classical--some might say old-fashioned--style. (www.schloss-johannisberg.de) Also recommended: 2012 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Kabinett Trocken (89), 2012 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Feinherb (85). Other wines tasted: 2012 Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Trocken.