2007 Barolo Riserva Rüncot

Like most Burgundy lovers who make nebbiolo in Piemonte, Gianluca Grasso is a huge fan of the 2010 vintage. "Two thousand eight was great, but 2010 is the next step up," he told me in September. "It was outstanding from the beginning and it's hard to find a flaw. The wines are Burgundian now but 2010 will be a great Barolo classic with a capital B in 15 or 20 years." The key to the quality of the 2010s at Grasso was full phenolic ripeness. "Following an early budbreak, the vegetative cycle was very long: we picked from October 20 through November 2," said Grasso. "The seeds were completely brown but not overripe, since we don't pull leaves. The 2010s are deeper than the 2008s but also elegant." In comparison, said Grasso, 2009 brought 80% phenolic maturity, with greener seeds. "It's a feminine, approachable vintage but not a classic. We had a lot of spring and summer rains, and mudslides. We did a severe green harvest and only used grapes from the middle to the top of our vineyards to make Barolo; we declassified the lower portion of each vineyard." Needless to say, Grasso's Barolo production was down sharply in 2009, and no Runcot was made. (Importers include Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd.,www.martinscottwines.com; and Sussex Wine Merchants, www.sussexwine.com)

Gianluca Grasso has been making some of the very best wines in Barolo for several vintages, but his 2009s are arguably the best examples of the kind of work that has elevated this small, family-run domaine to a position among Piedmont's top echelon. Unlike Burgundy, where the choicest vineyards are usually regarded to be mid-slope (a position that tends to encourage the best soil and climate balance) in Piedmont, vineyards designations often run all the way from the valley floor to the very top of the hill. In challenging years, quality can vary tremendously within the same vineyard. Vintage 2009 is a perfect example. Grasso bottled only the top portion of his vineyards, where the altitude helped maintain an element of freshness. Production is down a whopping 60%, but as a result of these sacrifices driven by a relentless pursuit of quality Grasso has been rewarded with two beautiful 2009 Barolos that are worthy follow-ups to the celestial 2008s. Sadly, there is no 2009 Runcot Riserva.