1996 Barolo Villero
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2022 - 2026
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2016 - 2031
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Bruno Giacosa was at the peak of his powers when he and winemaker Dante Scaglione made these stellar Barolos and Barbarescos. The Red Label Riservas are every bit as exceptional as their reputation suggests, but some of the White Labels in 1996 are also well worth seeking out.
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2015 - 2025
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This wine was tasted as part of Historic Piedmont: A Trip Back In Time, which takes a look at a number of older, historically significant wines from 1958 through 2000.
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The first [Italian Wine Weekend[ (http://vinous.com/articles/italian-wine-weekend-at-del-posto-nov-2009) was held in New York City on November 12-14, 2009. The event, loosely based on Daniel Johnnes’s La Paulée, was held to benefit the Slow Food University of Gastronomic Sciences in Pollenzo, Italy. As might be expected for any event in its first year, there were some rough spots, but both dinners I attended at Del Posto were packed. The charity auction raised almost $400,000 for the University, a great achievement by any measure. I am particularly grateful to the generous bidders who purchased the two dinner lots I was involved with. I hope the organizers, participating restaurants and wineries will make Italian Wine Weekend an annual tradition.
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The '98s have higher sugars, says enologist Dante Scaglione, but the '99s boast firmer acidity. In fact, adds Scaglione, pHs in '99 are as low as those of the classic '96 vintage, the recent vintage that was highest in polyphenols. The '97s, he adds, are almost drinkable right now. Sunny, dry days and warm nights in the weeks leading up to the '97 harvest resulted in substantial loss of coloring matter in the skins. Some of the fermentations were difficult (in a couple of instances the malos finished before the sugars were completely fermented), with the result that volatile acidity levels are at the high end of the acceptable range, which has the effect of making the wines even more expressive early on. Giacosa has somewhat shortened total maceration times in recent years, to about 15 days. The current crop of wines, thanks in equal part to shorter time on the skins and the ripeness of recent growing seasons, will not be quite as austere and forbidding in their youth as Giacosa wines of even a decade ago, but this magician's Barolos and Barbarescos from the best vintages still have fruit of steel.
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Giacosa is enamored with the '96 vintage, which he compares in quality and balance to the fabulous year of 1971. The Giacosa '96s I tasted are legends in the making, among the high points of my recent tour and truly great examples of traditional winemaking. Aromatically speaking, they are truly exhilarating wines, and they appear to have the sheer material and sweetness at the core to outlast their powerful, palate saturating tannins. The '97s, says Giacosa, will not be as great as the '96s. The grapes were too dry, he explains; they would have been better for a bit of well-timed rain. 1996 was a more regular year, yielding wines with superb color and structure, thanks largely to sound acidity. They also offer a rare degree of flavor development. x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D Giacosa, who bought a prime five hectare parcel of Barbaresco Asili in time for the '96 vintage (he previously owned a single hectare here), produced a sizable 21,000 bottles of this wine in '96. Incidentally, Giacosa made Barolo Villero in both '96 and '97, but will not offer a Rionda.
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