1988 Barolo Villero

These wines were tasted over dinner at Marea in October of 2014.

When people talk about the great Piedmont vintages of the 1980s, you are most likely to hear a discussion centered around 1982, 1985 (see above) and 1989, the relative merits of which are still debated with much passion and enthusiasm today. Until fairly recently, most of my own experience with the wines of Bruno Giacosa had also been limited to the better known labels from the more famous vintages. Nothing, then, could have prepared me for what I was about to experience in this impromptu, surprise tasting organized by two of my closest friends. These wines are from vintages long-forgotten by all but the most diehard of Piedmont aficionados - 1986, 1987, and to a lesser extent, 1988.
1986 is a vintage remembered for the severe hail that damaged many important vineyards in Barolo, and upon release the vintage was rated average by most observers. Interestingly, authors Sheldon and Pauline Wasserman were quite accurate in their appraisal of Giacosa's Villero and Riserva Falletto, both which they cited as being among the best wines of the vintage. The weakest of the three vintages is without question 1987, which as whole the was rated below average by most critics. The wines are often described as early maturing. By far the most important of these three vintages is 1988, which featured much more normal weather conditions than the two previous vintages. Producers often describe the 1988 as offering much Nebbiolo typicity, although ranking the vintage behind 1982, 1985 and 1989. As fate would have it, 1988 ultimately had the misfortune of being followed by the mythical 1989 and 1990 vintages, the wines that really catapulted Barolo into the ranks of world-class wines among a much broader audience than had been the case previously. Regardless, most critics viewed the vintage very favorably when the wines were released, and today the wines have held up well. On a closing note, let me say that all four of these wines provided the kind of immense drinking pleasure that only few wines are capable of delivering. Readers who are fortunate enough to own these wines should be very, very pleased.

A recent gathering of passionate Nebbiolo lovers in Boston provided a great opportunity to open a wide range of wines spanning four decades and the full gamut of styles. The wines were critically evaluated and discussed without food after which they were heartily enjoyed with a variety of delicious homemade dishes, among them our hosts' spectacular braised short ribs, which were so exceptional they nearly stole the show. The wines were decanted for several hours prior to being served and tasted blind. Given the casual nature of the evening notes on these wines should be interpreted as impressions rather than formal tasting notes.