2005 Barolo Riserva Rocche dell'Annunziata

Scavino's 2005 Barolos are terrific. The wines are just as good (or better) today than they were at the outset. With the exception of the Barolo Bric del Fiasc, all of the 2005s drink well now, especially if given some air.

Enrico Scavino introduced a new open-top vertical vat in 2007 that keeps the skins submerged under a net throughout the vinification. The skins fall to the V-shaped bottom of the tank and are drained off. The result, according to Elisa Scavino, is wines that show more early richness and complexity. The Scavino family works with no fewer than 18 Barolo crus, bottling five of them separately, along with two blends. Elisa described 2007 as "a peaceful vintage, expressive and harmonious, like eating a nebbiolo berry." The wines are layered, sweet, fruity and harmonious, she added, while the 2006s are "brighter, more tannic, earthy and precise. But the 2007s will show more acidity and freshness in five years," she maintained. Two thousand eight, from a very late harvest, "is another fantastic vintage along with 2006 and 2010. The canopy stayed green and healthy and the wines have a lot of aromatic complexity. The wines are not as rich or opulent as the '99s but they are classic, and more balsamic than forward and fruity." Also recommended: 2010 Barbera d'Alba (86).

My visit with Enrico Scavino and his daughter, Enrica, was one of the highlights of my November trip to Piedmont. In addition to these superb 2005 Barolos, I also sampled all of the 2006s, 2007s and 2008s from barrel and/or tank, which made for an incredible tasting. In recent years Scavino's wines have taken on additional elements of classicism that I find very appealing. Enrico Scavino has the energy of someone half his age. Scavino has recently concluded the purchase in the Monvigliero vineyard in Verduno which he had previously rented, and will make a new single vineyard Barolo from this site. Further acquisitions are in the works but are not yet finalized. I wish every producer in Piedmont had Scavino's sheer passion. As for the 2005s, well, they are striking for their aromatics and level of ripeness. Scavino continues to dial back the oak, and the color of these wines is much more typical of Nebbiolo than has been the case in the recent past. The overall level of quality is very close to 2004, although the wines are very different in terms of their personalities.