2009 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
France
Chambolle Musigny
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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"The 2009 vintage is exceptional, by which I mean not normal," said Olivier Bernstein. "There's a huge volume of tannins in the wines, and it's not a typical Burgundy vintage." Bernstein told me he began harvesting a week earlier than most of his neighbors, on September 7, and finished on September 13. "We wanted to preserve acidity," he said. He also vinified with about 50% whole clusters. "The stems were ripe, and we wanted to compensate for the lower acidity and give more structure to the wines. Ultimately, the '09s will age on the quantity and quality of their tannins." The malos were slow, finishing in July, but Bernstein was not planning to do a late bottling. His wines stood out in November for their rare combination of velvety, seamless textures and complex, fresh, soil-driven aromatics. Bernstein made 70 barrels of wine in 2009, up from 50 in 2008. He is also steadily reducing his percentage of new oak: from 100% in 2007 to 80% in 2008 to 70% in 2009. (A Becky Wasserman selection)
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