2020 Barolo Brunate

Roberto Voerzio founded his winery in the mid-1980s and quickly established himself as a trailblazer among his generation. For many years, Voerzio’s Barolos were incredibly exciting. Today, though, the winery strikes me as adrift and lacking in direction. The 2020s are pleasant, easygoing Barolos. They offer good depth in the lighter style that has marked recent vintages, but with none of the energy, none the visceral thrill, that was once such a signature here. These three Barolos were fine upon opening, then began to fade with air. Always outspoken, Voerzio has continued to raise prices sharply. Unfortunately, the days when these wines were at the top of the pecking order are in the rearview mirror, which makes them not just undistinguished but also completely overpriced. The serious Barolo lover may want to taste these wines for the sake of curiosity, but beyond that, there’s not much substance here.