2000 Canto Red Wine Napa Valley
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Original partner and winemaker John Kongsgaard left to pursue his own ventures but continues to consult here. New winemaker Abe Shoener, whose background includes a doctorate in ancient Greek philosophy, came here as a cellar rat in 1999 and, following the end of Kelly Wheat's tenure (Wheat vinified the '01s), took over as winemaker. Schoener shares Kongsgaard's approach to grape growing and winemaking. Superripeness in the vineyards, including the harvesting of vines on the verge of collapse, vines that have given everything they have to give" is his picking strategy. The emphasis in the winery is then on preserving the fruit," he explains, "but we also want good acidity and tannic structure, as well as length on the palate. We do no chemical intervention and allow the microbiology to flourish, without worrying too much about exposure to oxygen." Shoener describes 2001 as a tricky year for sangiovese, as this variety did not ripen evenly. Two thousand two was much better for this grape, he added. I continue to be amazed that a commercial-scale operation like Luna could be releasing such individual wines, and this is not likely to change as long as Shoener is running the show. These wines are priced as if the winery actually plans to sell them.
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