2001 Barbaresco Vigneto Valeirano
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2013 - 2013
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Giorgio Rivetti and French enologist Stephano Mazzetta make richly-textured modern-styled wines that at their best offer tremendous opulence and seamlessness. Yields are low and the house style emphasizes super-ripe fruit and a lavish use of new oak, as all the wines see 100% new oak each year. Like every other producer in the region Rivetti struggled with the intense heat of 2003. His Barbarescos show the characteristics of the vintage in their unusually light colors and hard, green tannins. The estate's new releases include also include several Riserva bottlings which are made from the best-exposed parcels within the estate's Barolo and Barbaresco vineyards. These wines see slightly longer fermentation times than the regular releases as well as extended ageing in 100% new oak and are bottled only in magnums.
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Giorgio Rivetti is a man on the move, having in recent years added a major vineyard holding in Grinzane Cavour as well as a 70-hectare estate (45 are currently in production) in Tuscany, Casanova della Spinetta. Rivetti makes some of the best and most popular new-style Barbarescos (and now a new Barolo) of the Langhe, working with yields that he typically limits to two tons per acre by doing extensive green harvesting and foregoing the use of fertilizers. Rivetti has been in his airy new winery in Grinzane Cavour since the 2000 harvest (he still makes his Pin, moscato and still white wines in the old facility in Castagnole delle Lanze, just south of Asti), and I tasted his current line-up of wines in the spacious tasting room at the foot of Rivetti's steep Barolo vineyard. He uses rotofermenters for Barolo and Barbaresco, but notes that his fermentations generally last six to ten days, which is longer than most fermentations using this device. (Marc de Grazia; numerous importers, including Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; and Estate Wines Ltd. , San Rafael, CA)
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