2003 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Bottled Spring Mountain Napa Valley
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Philip Togni had not decided whether he was going to bottle his 2002 cabernet under the estate's flagship label or declassify the wine into Tanbark Hill. The fruit in 2002 was picked with a high pH, and Togni's lot of press wine was especially low in acidity. He did not acidify at the outset, and then the press wine "got bacterial" and he had to sell it off. "In retrospect, we should have known that the pH of the press wine was too high," said Togni. The moral of the story is that you can't do everything by the seat of your pants, which is what I had done for 49 years."The blend that I tasted thus comprised only free-run juice, with a very high pH even after a bit of late acidification. Togni had no such problems with the 2001, which should go down as a classic vintage for this estate on Spring Mountain.
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