1997 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru

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Following strict selection, DRC produced just 25 hectoliters per hectare in 1998. As with so many '98s from Vosne-Romanee, the wines from this domain are powerfully structured and developing at a glacial pace. "But our wines always need 15 years," noted co-owner/director Aubert de Villaine. "Even the '97s are not for drinking young." Except for the Richebourg, which had not yet been racked, all the '98 barrels that I sampled had been racked prior to the '99 harvest. The more fragile '97s were bottled barrel by barrel to avoid any additional aeration (normal practice at this estate in recent years has been to bottle in six-barrel lots, assembling the wine in small tanks).

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Aubert de Villaine believes the '96s are very much like the '66s made by this domain. In '66, he explains, yields were even higher, but the fruit showed strong acidity and good sugar levels and displayed explosive fruit in the barrel. The '66s "didn't like" the bottling, and for the next ten years they were "as closed as stones"; similarly, says de Villaine, the '96s are in the process of shutting down in bottle. "There are two things I've learned through the years," notes de Villaine: "First, it is a mistake to try to extract through enological means. And, second, when they are ripe enough it good to keep the stems. If you put something a little green into the bottle, it enables the wine to age more gracefully; the wine matures like a flower." De Villaine describes the acid levels of '97 as lower than those of '96 but adequate. Still, the wines will be bottled quite early (the Echezeaux and Grands Echezeaux were already in bottle at the end of January), barrel by barrel to avoid having to do a second aeration.

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