2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée du Papet

"Our reputation is for wines of finesse," said Thierry Sabon, "and I try very hard to live up to that by making wines that have concentration without weight." He told me that 2006 was a better vintage for definition of place, but doesn't have the concentration of 2005. "For us, 2006 has black fruit and the depth of 2005, with the balance of 2004," he explained. He also mentioned that one of the strongest marks of 2005 "is a pronounced impression of tapenade." By the way, a bottle of 2000 Cuvee du Papet tasted at the estate in November was extremely elegant, with deep, sweet dark fruit flavors, silky tannins and a long, spicy finish. It's already magnificent but will hold on for years to come. On the subject of the ageability of these wines, Sabon told me that he recently had a bottle of the 1955 (normale, as there was no Papet back then), "and it was just great." (A Peter Vezan Selection; various importers, including North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA and Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY)

I tasted this year with Thierry Sabon, who is now in charge of vinification at this traditional estate. He makes no secret that he "bottles to preserve fruit," which sometimes means earlier than many of his neighbors. He also prefers his wines to be "fat but not flat, with minerality and finesse. Two thousand five is a magical year," he told me, "and the wines will have a great evolution. " (A Peter Vezan Selection; importers include Ideal Wines, Medford, MA; Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; and Dionysos Imports, Lorton, VA)