2005 La Tâche Grand Cru

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The private dining room of David Chang’s Momofuku Ko was the site of this recent birthday dinner. The food and wine were both terrific, but as always, it’s the people who make an event special. Over the years, this group has tasted some pretty special wines together. That was once again the case on this night. Sommeliers John Slover and Chase Sinzers did a fabulous job keeping up with the pace and ensuring each wine was served at the optimal temperature.

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Aubert de Villaine described 2005 as "a drought year in which the vines adapted well-and much better than they did in 2003." He told me he was worried about getting the dry tannins of 1976, but was pleasantly surprised to find that the wines showed a lot of fruit from the very beginning. Yields for most of the property's crus were in the range of 28 to 30 hectoliters per hectare. Incidentally, Villaine told me that although the domain typically bottles six barrels at a time, the 2002 La Tache and Romanee-Conti were bottled barrel by barrel, as were most of the wines in 1995. DRC prefers to bottle barrel by barrel when they don't want to lose any more CO2. The finished 2004s here are wonderfully complex wines, among the stars of their vintage, but the 2005s, which should evolve in bottle for 20 to 30 years, are extra special. "Two thousand four will always be a vintage for the nose," noted Villaine. "It will always be extremely aromatic."

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