2022 Gigondas Le Plateau

Julien Bréchet’s 2023 Gigondas are outstanding, with the top tiers Le Lieu Dit, La Colline and Le Regard Loin all vying for the title of wine of the vintage. Unlike the more powerful, concentrated and tannic 2022s, which are built for extended aging, the 2023s display a haunting elegance with a focused and fresh character. Bréchet and his wife Justine have launched a new project, Domaine de la Combe de Mars. Here, they produce a solid Vin de Pays Côte Inverse and the distinctive Gigondas Le Bout du Monde, which was previously released under Domaine des Bosquets. The Bréchet couple notes that while Julien will continue to concentrate on viticulture and winemaking at Domaine des Bosquets, Justine will primarily oversee the wines from Domaine de la Combe de Mars.

According to the official notarial register for cultivating vines, Domaine des Bosquests traces its origins to 1376. The historic cellars were built in 1644. Today, Domaine des Bosquets spans 26 hectares in Gigondas, featuring 11 individually vinified parcels. The vineyards currently boast a composition of 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 7% Mourvèdre and a small portion of Cinsaut. Certified organic since 2021, owner and winemaker Julien Bréchet has also embraced biodynamic practices. During my visit, we explored the scenic vineyards nestled high in the appellation, with notable sites like La Colline reaching an elevation of 350 meters. The high altitude and morning shade from the Dentelles des Montmirail and surrounding trees impart crucial cooling influences for increased diurnal range. Bréchet’s Gigondas winemaking philosophy is pretty straightforward: let the individual terroirs express themselves, rely on old vines, maintain naturally low yields for heightened concentration, and minimize intervention in the winemaking process. In the 2022 vintage, for example, Bréchet’s yields hovered between 16 and 17 hectoliters per hectare, less than half of the appellation's official maximum. The vinification process involves minimal new wood and an assortment of vessels, including barriques, demi-muids and larger 35-hectoliter foudres. Notably, no new wood is introduced in his single-vineyard wines. The use of whole clusters is widespread, exemplified in the impressive 2022 Gigondas Le Bout du Monde. Bréchet’s Grenache-centric single vineyard offerings from the 2022 vintage - Le Bout du Monde, Le Lieu Dit and La Colline - stand out, claiming the top tier in the appellation's quality hierarchy. Le Regard Loin, a blend of five different vineyard parcels, left an equally stunning impression. While the 2021 counterparts are commendable in their own right, they seem to fall slightly short of the excellence achieved in 2022. For enthusiasts of pure Southern Rhône Syrah expressions, the well-crafted Gigondas Les Routes and Les Roches are a must-try. Although the single-varietal Mourvèdre Gigondas Le Plateau from 2021 left a less enduring impression, the 2022 rendition displayed more promise.