2011 Chablis En Vaudécorse

My visit to Domaine Picq at the entrance of Chichée often serves as a barometer for how the region performed generally in a given vintage. Didier Picq’s wines are the epitome of nervy, almost Zen-like Chablis that would run a mile if someone even mentioned “oak” in their presence. Yet, Picq manages to imbue his half-dozen or so cuvées with immense concentration and flavor year after year. Without wishing to sound like a broken record, the direct comparison of 2018 and 2019 demonstrates that the latter are clearly superior. “I prefer the 2019 vintage, which is more mineral and more Chablis,” Picq opined. “The 2018, that I picked from 4 September, is richer and more powerful, more like 2015. The 2019 is half the crop of 2018 and was picked from 14-21 September.” Readers should not overlook the 2018s, particular Picq’s splendid Chablis Vieilles Vignes from vines turning septuagenarian next year. Glug that down whilst waiting for the stunning 2019 that emitted so much energy that it could supply electricity for a small suburban town for a year. If you are seeking quintessential Chablis, then this is the address to head for.

Didier Picq brought in his 2012s between the end of September and early October. Yields were down 30-35%, with early flowering parcels on the Right Bank most affected by hail and coulure (shatter). Picq's 2012 are big, rich wines very much in the style the house is known for. The 2011s, on the other hand, are the product of a more generous and earlier ripening vintage that yielded a set of immediate wines best suited to near-term drinking.

Didier Picq was not the only grower I visited this year who maintained that the rain that fell on September 23 and 24 of 2012 was constructive."Early on, the acidity levels in the grapes were very high," he explained."It reminded me of 1996."Picq started harvesting on the 26th and picked until October 4.By waiting, he gained 10% to 15% more juice, the acidity levels went down, and the grape sugars didn't go up much."Before that, the wines were a bit vegetal.So by waiting we were able to make rounder wines without too much of a loss in acidity.And the 2010s have good minerality--like 2010 but with a bit more flesh and fruit."Picq emphasized that the Rive Droite, which flowered very early, was hit hard by coulure, whereas the Rive Gauche, which is where 80% of his production comes from, produced almost a normal crop load in 2012.

Didier Picq's wines are always on the big side, and that is amplified in 2011. Picq harvested his 2011s from September 6 to 15, which is to say slightly on the late side relative to his peers. Of course, the 2011s are still very young. It will be interesting to see what direction they take over the coming year. I also tasted all of the tanks that will be blended into the straight Chablis. The 2010s also showed beautifully across the board.

Despite their sometimes exotic aromas and flavors, Didier Picq's 2011s have a racy, tangy quality that gives them more personality than most wines from this vintage.Picq told me he keeps a lot of the heavier lees to facilitate his natural yeast fermentations (this is no doubt at least partly why his wines always boast a thickness of texture), and they went particularly quickly in 2011.Both the primary and secondary fermentations were done by Christmas, and yields in 2011 were full.Incidentally, Picq harvested on the late side, from September 7 through 15, bringing in fruit with potential alcohol between 12.0% and 12.7% and chaptalizing most of his wines lightly.Acidity levels are in the healthy 3.9 to 4.2 range.Picq's 2010s, impressively rich and concentrated from tank last year, have turned out very well.