2002 Corton-Charlemagne Quintessence Grand Cru

Girardin cut his use of new oak drastically in 2003, to no more than 10% for most of his cuvees relying instead on a high percentage of 2002 barrels. All of the 2003s were acidified in cuve Girardin reported, and he will adjust them again if he feels they need it. A few of the malolactic fermentations were blocked, "if they did not take place early, with the rest of the wines. "Girardin told me he produced just 25 hectoliters per hectare on average in 2003, or about half a normal harvest. He started picking on August 24, two days after a rain shower which he feels "de-stressed the vines without lowering acidity levels. Before the rain there was less ripeness and less acidity. "Ultimately, the fruit came in with potential alcohol in the very high 14% to 14. 5% range, although Girardin noted that "the greater the soil, the less surmuri character the wines show. "Girardin expressed the opinion that the vines of Puligny-Montrachet were slightly favored in 2003, as there was a bit more rain here in the spring. The 2003s had not yet been racked at the time of my visit; Girardin planned to assemble them in August. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham AL numerous Girardin wines are also imported under the Baron de la Charriere label by European Cellars, Charlotte NC

There are always new developments chez Girardin.This year, Girardin reported that he will be making less red wine in the future and focusing on whites, which he obviously finds easier to sell.In fact, in 2003 Girardin will offer only three bottlings from the Cote de Nuits (Echezeaux, Charmes-Chambertin and Clos Vougeot), and white wines will account for 80% of his production. It's necessary to evolve,' said Girardin, who has chosen to concentrate on his own domain vineyards. (He purchased the Henri Clerc holdings in 2001 and will continue to be on the lookout for premier cru chardonnay parcels in the Cote de Beaune; in November Girardin had just purchased a hectare of Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot, which he will make for the first time in 2004.)In his very cold new cellar across the train tracks from the village of Meursault, Girardin held the temperature at 50 degrees through the stifling summer of 2003. The worst enemy of wine is heat,' Girardin noted. The biggest advantage of my new cave is that I'm no longer at the mercy of different cellars with different temperatures.'For the first time, Girardin will be able to do the bottling by gravity.He compares the 2002 vintage to 1985:a suave, stylish group of wines with supple tannins and medium-term aging potential.He vinified with about 20% of the stems 'because they were ripe.'Compared to 2002, says Girardin, 2001 is less expressive now, 'but it is destined to age and will reveal itself only with time in bottle.It's more distinguished than 2000, with better material.' (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; some Girardin wines are also imported under the Baron de la Charriere label by European Cellars, Charlotte, NC)