1999 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins
France
Châteauneuf Du Pape
Southern Rhône
Red
Rhone Blend
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Pazo Restaurant in Baltimore, MD.
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Henri Bonneau, always a tough judge of vintages,x000D allowed as how the 1998 through 2001 period brought a succession of very goodx000D to outstanding harvests, even if he still believed that 1998 produced winesx000D closest in quality and style to his massive and legendary 1990s. In November, Bonneau was the onlyx000D Chateauneuf grower who insisted that I taste his young 2002. While the wine did not yet show a lot ofx000D texture, it had unmistakable Chateauneuf du Pape aromas and flavors ofx000D raspberry, strawberry and pepper. Bonneau told me that since he owns a 12-hectoliter cuve, he bottles hisx000D wines five and a half barrels at a time. He also mentioned that he currently prefers his 1995 Marie Beurrier tox000D his 1995 Celestins.
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Henri Bonneau was in fine form the evening I stopped by in November, having recently completed his fourth consecutive highly successful vintage. Vintages 2000, '99 and '98 will all yield at least moderate quantities of Bonneau's Reserve des Celestins, but don't expect to see these wines on the market for several years. Bonneau's house and cellars at the top of the village of Chateauneuf du Pape date back to the 14th century; his barrels are of somewhat more recent vintage.
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Bonneau, always a brutally honest judge of his own wines and Chateauneuf vintages, has had a trio of strong crops since '98. He is enamored of the purity of fruit his vines yielded in 2000, although he not yet sure if the wines will show enough sheer gras for greatness. The '99s, he says, are less dense, but display good freshness and structure for aging. And '98, Bonneau is confident, is at the exalted level of 1990, although he won't even think about bottling the first batch for at least another three years (some of his '98 lots were just finished fermenting their sugars!). An enologist turned loose in this rabbit warren of a cellar would have an infarction: he'd rant about protecting pHs, replacing ancient barrels, racking the wines more often, bottling as much as years earlier. Some of these wines would no doubt be better for earlier bottling, but the wine world would lose one of its most idiosyncratic throwback examples.
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