2010 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Embrazées 1er Cru
France
Chassagne Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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Thomas Morey told me he doesn't yet know "where to place" the 2011 vintage. He believes that the wines will be "easy and pleasant" and will give pleasure relatively young. Although yields were in the 50 to 52 hectoliters-per-hectare range, there was not a lot of juice in the grapes as copper treatments against powdery mildew during the summer had the effect of toughening the grape skins. With more solid matter in the must, Morey did a longer-than-usual debourbage. The 2011s had been racked at the beginning of April. By the way, Morey noted that following the frost of 2010, a good bit of village-level pinot noir in Chassagne-Montrachet was replanted to chardonnay.
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2013 - 2013
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This is a gorgeous set of wines from Thomas Morey. In the 2010s I find gorgeous transparency to site and tons of refinement, something I saw less of in the 2009s. Yields were down 15-20%, which is pretty good considering the fate many of Morey's colleagues suffered. Because Morey bottles before the following harvest, the cellar is warmed to start the malos, which in 2010 were done by January, to give the wines six months or so to settle prior to bottling. Fans of the domaine should be thrilled to learn that production is set to go up in 2011 with three new wines; Macherelles, Chenevottes, and Clos St. Jean, while quantities will increase slightly in the Morgeot and Bâtard.
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Thomas Morey told me that he's now doing a "tighter debourbage" and that he carried out a maximum of five batonnages in 2010. He believes that these changes will allow him to make a less opulent, full-blown style of wine. The malolactic fermentations in 2010 were finished by the beginning of April and the wines had been racked and sulfited by the time of my visit. Morey is farming his vines organically as of 2011.
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2014 - 2014
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Thomas Morey began harvesting on September 12th. The wines went into oak (30% new) with very fine lees and saw little bâtonnage. The 2009s were bottled before the 2010 harvest. Stylistically the wines are very bright, and at times, piercing. It also appears that the relatively early bottling plus the qualities of the 2009 vintage are factors to tend to flatten out some of differences between sites here. Today it looks like the 2010s are ultimately more complete as well as promising, wines. Morey describes the 2010s has having both higher sugars and acidities than the 2009s.
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