2003 Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru

Jobard reminded me that he started harvesting in 2003 on September 3, "after most people had finished." Jobard, who began vinifying on his own in 1964, describes the young 2003s as having "the richness of 1947 but not the same finesse." He reported that he harvested his fruit in 2004 with potential alcohol in the 13%-13.5% range and did not chaptalize; the 2003s were only a hair higher in alcohol, he added. The new vintage required a lot of selection both in the vines and in the winery. The young 2004s were extremely leesy and funky at the beginning of June (Jobard's wines are typically slow to finish their fermentations), and thus I will report on these wines next year. The estate's top three '04s, though, showed very strong potential.

The rain on August 28 restored the greenness to the vines and allowed the vegetative cycle, which had stopped for two weeks, to continue, said Francois Jobard. The rain softened the grapes, which had become tough from roasting in the sun. "Jobard was one of a few producers who told me he did not acidify his musts prior to fermentation, as he believed this would have dried the wines. All of the malolactic fermentations had finished by the time of my visit at the beginning of Ju ne. Incidentally, Jobard is not convinced that 2003 is a vintage that's only suited for drinking young. In 1964 the wines had almost no acidity, and the wines are still good," he maintained. They have always remained fresh. "(Kermit Lynch, Berkeley CA