2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru

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My first visit during over five weeks of tasting was down in Maranges at Domaine Bachelet-Monnot, where Alexandre and Marc Bachelet have been on fire over recent vintages. They approach the vines organically but do not seek certification. "We used some whole bunch but adapted each cuvée to the amount desired," Marc Bachelet told me. "We had no problem with the dry conditions. We commenced picking on 28 August for the whites and the reds were picked from 3 until 8 September, keeping the yield around 40 to 45hl/ha. We use 20% new oak across the range and we were careful with pigeage in order not to over-extract. The malolactic was quite early, around mid-March instead of May/June. The wines were racked two weeks ago. With respect to the whites, I was worried that they were too heavy like the 2015s, but now very happy how they turned out."

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Among other recent refinements in their techniques, the Bachelet brothers have been steadily cutting back on their percentage of new oak in recent years. “We don’t like the sweetness it adds to the wines,” explained Marc Bachelet, and in fact these wines now finish very dry. The Bachelets don’t practice batonnage and beginning in 2016 they’ve been crushing the grapes for a couple of their cuvées, particularly their premier crus, as that step “liberates the juice and gives the wines more texture and finesse,” according to Marc.

The Bachelets started harvesting on August 28 in 2017 with their Bourgogne Blanc, and were mostly finished before the substantial rainfall on September 2. Yields for the crus ranged from 35 to 40 hectoliters per hectare, and potential alcohol levels were mostly between 12.5% and 13.2%. Some of the post-malo 2017s still have 4.5 per liter acidity, said Alexandre Bachelet.

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