2009 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru
France
Puligny Montrachet
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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Marc Bachelet describes 2010 as a typical Burgundy vintage from a small crop, without exaggerated acids or sugars. "We picked with very little rot," he told me, "and the premier crus were much riper than the village wines. It's a vintage with very good balance. In fact, 2010 has better ripeness than 2008. In '08, the ripeness came in the last ten days of the season." According to brother Alexandre, 2010 was the first year in which the Bachelets did no lees stirring. They do a strict debourbage but then work as reductively as possible. And they are slowly but surely reducing the percentage of new oak during elevage: it's now about one-third for the grand crus and 25% to 30% for the premier crus.
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Alexandre Bachelet describes 2009 as a ripe vintage with good acidity, a bit like 2006. "The wines were too rich at the beginning, but now they're fresher," he said, adding that he and brother Marc did not start harvesting especially early. The fermentations were rather long but the wines finished nicely dry, in the range of one gram per liter of residual sugar. I was impressed by the estate's 2008s, which were bottled in April of this year due in part to late malolactic fermentations. (Vintage '59 Imports, Washington, D.C; Ruby Wines, Avon, MA )
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