1996 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru
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Dominique Lafon compares his '97 reds to his '85s "in terms of the quality of tannins and fruit" but notes that the pHs were higher in '85. "The '97s will age better," he believes. Lafon gave the '97s a strong racking after the malos but decided against a second racking. Beginning in '97, Lafon switched to a new destemmer that doesn't crush the berries. As a result he is able to do a longer fermentation but with a softer extraction. "We get the same amount of tannins as before, but the tannins are now softer." But Lafon also pointed out that even in '96 a lot of the berries remained uncrushed because the grape skins were strong.
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Following a six-day cold maceration, the fermentations of the '96 reds here lasted longer than usual (three weeks, vs. about two) because the skins were strong, according to Dominique Lafon. And the extraction of tannins came later than usual. With high levels of malic acidity, the wines held a lot of CO2 and needed substantial aeration; as a vintage, '96 has been even more reductive than '95, says Lafon, who believes that these wines will close up again following bottling. 1996 brought even lower pHs than those of '95: the '95s are concentrated but more compact and monolithic than the '96s, says Lafon.
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