2009 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Griotte Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2023 vintage)
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2019 - 2029
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Claude Dugat farms 16 hectares, of which only 3 are owned. Dugat waited until September 20 to start harvesting. The fruit was 100% destemmed and spent 15 days on the skins with two punchdowns a day and no pumpovers. The wine was pressed, left 48 hours to decant and moved into barrel. The wines were racked the following April and were bottled with no fining or filtration. The Bourgogne is aged in neutral oak, the villages and 1ers see 50% new oak and the grand crus see 100% new oak.
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Dugat began harvesting on September 12, the same day that many of his colleagues in Gevrey-Chambertin leaped into action in 2009. As he keeps yields reasonable (they varied between 35 and 40 hectoliters in this generous year), he normally has ripe fruit on the early side, so it was no surprise that some of his 2009s show the chocolatey, creamy aspect of the vintage. These will be popular wines, but I preferred his more classic 2008s for their vibrancy and delineation. For his part, Dugat told me he finds his '09 Bourgogne Rouge and his village wine too heavy for his liking. He feels that wines made from drier sites had a better balance in 2009, as a slight blockage of maturity slowed the increase in grape sugars. But this was not necessarily the case for growers with heavier crop loads, who could have suffered from plunging acidity levels. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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