1996 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
France
Griotte Chambertin
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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One would have to be palate-dead, if not brain dead, not to enjoy Claude Dugat remarkably rich, sweet Burgundies. Dugat, a genial but quiet man who prefers to let his wines do the talking, left me with the distinct impression that he marginally prefers his '96s to his '95s, but still considers the magnificent '93s to be the most complete wines he has made to date. These wines are now extremely difficult to find in the marketplace, but are worth the search. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)
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Self-effacing, quietly confident Claude Dugat has become a cult figure (the successor to Henri Jayer?) but wears his fame lightly. Dugat added to his village holdings by purchasing some 70-year-old vines in 1994. Following our tasting of the 1995 Griottes-Chambertin, Dugat opened a bottle of the '93 Griottes, one of a handful remaining in his private collection. The '93 was off the charts, with extraordinarily chewy texture and a powerful suggestion of terroir I give the '93 a slight edge over '95 here on sheer structure and material, but the '95s are glorious wines. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.)