2004 Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle 1er Cru
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"We had 22 millimeters of rain on September 9 or 10 and then the north wind dried things out and we started picking early, on the 15th Very little sorting was necessary." With his very low crop levels (barely 30 hectoliters per hectare for the premier crus and 25 to 30 for the grand crus), Dugat gets ripe fruit early, and often starts harvesting, with special permission, before the official first day. Dugat vinified with about 50% whole clusters in 2005, but the Vosne-Romanee villages and Chambertin were done entirely via vendange entier He continues to do less pumping over and punching down during vinification, allowing his very strong raw material to speak for itself.
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Bernard Dugat told me that 2004 was his 30th anniversary as a winemaker. In recent years he has done less and less punching down of the cap during fermentation. now usually just once a day. Dugat continues to buy more vines when they become available (he recently purchased a tiny parcel of very old vines in Petite Chapelle), although additions tend to be tiny owing to the exorbitant cost of land in the best Gevrey crus. Dugat's 2003s are about as good as this vintage gets. He told me he selected virtually berry by berry with an eye toward eliminating the fruit that was grilled by the sun.
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