2009 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
France
Vougeot
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2023 vintage)
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2019 - 2039
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2019 - 2029
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Arnaud Mortet told me he is working with less extraction and lower levels of new oak than his father used to employ. Mortet did 5 days of cold maceration followed by 20 or so days of fermentation with very light extraction. The malos finished between June and November 2010, on the late side for the vintage.
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"The challenge in 2009 was to preserve freshness in the wines," said Arnaud Mortet, whose wines were still on their lees in November, following malolactic fermentations that mostly ended in July and August. Except for a couple that were in cuve in preparation for a January bottling, the wines had not recently been sulfured, although Mortet told me he did make use of sulfur during elevage, which is not always the case here. "It was not as easy as 2005," he told me. "We had to work in the vines to reduce yields; in late July and early August and again at the end of August we dropped nearly half of the crop." Mortet started harvesting on September 10. "My father and the Dugats were always competing to see who could pick earlier, but in 2009 I wanted to wait for phenolic ripeness; I look for more maturity and less extraction," Mortet reported. "My father would have started on the 5th or 6th." Grape sugars were in the high 13.3% to 13.7% range, with the Clos Vougeot at 14%. Mortet did more pigeages than usual for the 2009s-"about seven to nine in total"-but told me he likes this technique less and less and is depending more on remontage "for quick, short oxygenation" of the fermenting wines.
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