2003 L'Esprit de Pavots Red Wine Knights Valley
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There are major changes to report here. Nicolas Morlet has been hired to replace his older brother Luc as winemaker. Luc has joined Staglin Family Vineyard as winemaker and is launching his own label, but will continue to consult at Peter Michael. In the meantime, longtime general manager Bill Vyenielo has also left to pursue his own wine marketing venture and ex-winemaker and long-time consultant Mark Aubert is no longer involved at Peter Michael. Despite all these changes, the set of 2004s I sampled in mid-March was brilliant. Luc Morlet described the 2004 vintage as similar to 2003 in its high natural acidity, but with a lower crop level. "The weather alternated between hot days and thick fog," noted Morlet, pointing out that many other North Coast vineyards experienced a very long and mostly unrelieved heat wave without any protection from fog. "Here, the ripeness went up in spurts, then stabilized. "
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According to winemaker Luc Morlet, vintage 2003 was comparable to 2002 in ripeness, concentration and fruit yield."The main difference was the higher acidity of 2003 and the slightly lower alcohol," he said."It's an exciting, classic vintage, more like 2001."This winery continues to produce some of California's greatest chardonnays in a very rich yet technically bone-dry style.
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