2001 Hermitage

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Marcel Guigal expressed the opinion that Cote-Rotie was the most successful appellation in France in 2003. While my own tastings suggest that it's more variable in quality than Guigal believes, and too freakish to be considered a truly great vintage, Guigal's own single-vineyard Cote-Roties are stunningly rich, and his new Hermitage Ex-Voto is a monument in the making. Guigal, not surprisingly, took an approach to vinification different from that of most of his colleagues in the Northern Rhone:he did a longer fermentation than usual (between four and five weeks) and managed to extract very suave tannins. For those of you keeping score at home, 25% of the production of this large house is white wine, whereas in the RhoneValley as a whole, according to Marcel's son Philippe Guigal, white wine accounts for 3. 2% of the total. And Guigal vinified 40% of all Condrieu made in vintage 2004, according to Philippe. Clearly, the Guigals succeed in the marketplace with their white wines because they like them round and full-bodied; they are not fans of acidity in these wines.

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Philippe Guigal provided stark evidence of thex000D difficulty of the 2002 harvest for Rhone Valley growers. Because of the rain and thex000D possibility of quickly spreading rot we moved up our harvest dates three orx000D four times, then picked everything in an amazingly short window," he toldx000D me. All of the Guigals' Cote-Rotiex000D fruit was in by September 20, even the grapes destined for the family's fabledx000D La-La wines. Fruit sugars reached 11.5%x000D for syrah, according to Philippe, but 13.8% for the Condrieu Doriane. There was much less rot in thex000D viognier vines, even in the same parcels as syrah," he added. Guigal fans will not want to miss thex000D house's sensational 1999 Cote-Rotie special cuvees, which will be shipped inx000D late winter.

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