2021 La Dame de Montrose
France
Saint Estèphe
Bordeaux
Red
53% Merlot, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc
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2024 - 2035
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2027 - 2041
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2026 - 2036
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2024 - 2035
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There are changes afoot at Montrose, at least in terms of personnel, as Herve Berland retires and is replaced by Pierre Graffeuille from Léoville Las-Cases. I tasted with the full team including technical director Vincent Decup. “The weather was quite complicated,” Decup told me. “The season was more complicated than usual with more rain from March to July. We lost 5-6% of the crop due to mildew pressure. It’s more difficult because we farm organically and worked five weekends applying copper before the rains, sometimes twice a week. We moved the harvest to 21 September until 6 October. There were 11 days of harvest over that period. There were a few showers, but not too heavy. It was important to decide on the exact date of picking for each parcel. The Merlot was slightly larger than usual and the Petit Verdot and the Cabernet Sauvignon about the same. We used 31% Merlot in the final blend, which is more than usual (around 20%) because the yields were higher (38hL/ha for the Montrose), even though we only used Merlot on gravel soils that reached a higher level than those of Merlot on clayey soils. Analytically, it seemed like the maturity was not there as the sugar levels were lower, but when we tasted the berries, the skins and tannins were ripe. The conditions at the end of the harvest were similar to those of 2014. We did less remontage during the three-week cuvaison, especially at the end of the period to maintain the balance of the wines. The blend is matured in 60% new oak and 33% for the La Dame de Montrose. We used the vin de presse, around 12% in all three wines, to obtain the density and concentration instead of pressing harder. We feel that the 2021 Montrose is in a similar vein to the 2014, maybe to the 1988 but with much more precision.”
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