2004 Acininobili

When most readers think of the Veneto, it’s usually Valpolicella, Soave and possibly Prosecco that comes to mind; however, if you haven’t experienced what’s being produced in Breganze, a small town in the Province of Vicenza, northeast from Verona, then you’re missing out. Especially for lovers of Bordeaux blends and dessert wines. The winery to know in Breganze, and the one that defines the region entirely from an international perspective is Maculan. Today, the management of the winery and vineyards is split between the third generation of the family, Angela and Maria Vittoria Maculan, yet with their father, Fausto, still involved in the daily operations. The style here is distinctly inspired by Bordeaux, where the family makes use of the hilly terrain, volcanic soils and a strong confluence of cooling effects from the mountainous north and warming currents from the south and Adriatic sea. Frankly, lovers of Italian Cabernet and Merlot are going to find a lot to like here: the entry-level Brentino representing tremendous value, the single-vineyard Fratta that can stand shoulder to shoulder with Bordeaux and the Crosara, which puts a northern Italian spin on Merlot. As for the Maculan family, their pride and joy is the selection of sweet wines that they produce, the Acininobili and Torcolato, both created using Vespaiolo grapes that are air-dried and botrytis-affected. These wines are heady yet wonderfully balanced and capable of evolving slowly over the course of decades. As evidence, my recent visit to the winery included a tasting of vintages going back to 1986, and readers can find the notes within this report.