2002 Esprit de Beaucastel Paso Robles
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.This joint venture of Chateau de Beaucastel and their American importer Robert Haas was founded in 1989.There are now 90 acres under vine on this property of 170 acres, with clonal selections from the Southern Rhone Valley used in all vineyards planted since 1994.It took a while for the team here to figure out that the climate of Paso Robles was a lot different than that of Chateauneuf du Pape, and that dry autumns in the Paso Robles area made it possible to let the fruit hang much longer on the vines.Today, the estate is harvesting their fruit riper than ever before, not least due to the recent string of warm years.And yet the wines are clear, bright and delineated, as refined as wine gets in this part of the world.In fact, it occurs to me that these are some of the very few California wines that can beat France at its own game.They have the breadth, classically dry flavors and suavity of the best French wines, while delivering the sweetness of fruit that comes from California sunshine.I tasted with general manager Jason Haas and Neil Collins, who has been in charge of winemaking here since 1997, the year Tablas Creek began vinifying in their own facility.Don't miss this estate's uncommonly fine white wines from RhoneValley grapes.
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