2006 Sauvignon Selezione

Emotional. Moving. Intense. Those are just some of the words that come to mind when I think ot Edi Kante's wines. Over the years I have had the good fortune to taste and drink many of the reference points here. At their best, these are some of the most compelling, gripping whites being made anywhere in the world. The late-release Selezioni in particular are well worth the effort of seeking out. Kante favors natural malos when possible. The wines are fermented in barrel and then often moved into steel for another 10-11 months, although I must add that there are no real rules here. Some of the Selezioni can spend years in tank prior to being bottled. At their best, these are some of the most compelling whites being made anywhere in Italy. I tend to gravitate to the Sauvignons, especially the Selezione, which can easily age 10+ years. In recent years, the Chardonnay La Bora di Kante has also been compelling. Sadly, there are no Selezioni in either 2010 or 2011, but the older wines that are being released now - two 2006 Selezioni and the 2005 Bora di Kante - will keep rabid Kante fans, of which I am one, happy.

What can I say about the wines I tasted at Kante? Words are pretty superfluous when confronted with this stunning overall level of quality. Edi Kante's wines are at once intensely varietal yet also imbued with the deepest sense of the Carso, the rocky, hillside stretch of mountains where these vineyards lie. Think of Kante as Italy's Coche-Dury.