1998 Syrah Carneros
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The problem in '98 in general, according to Havens, is a lack of mid-palate sweetness and roundness, and the presence of green tannins in so many wines. "The character of the vintage was determined by the damp, cool spring weather," Havens pointed out, "and the skins were less consistently ripe than we're used to seeing." Havens thus did a severe selection among his multiple lots, ultimately selling off a substantial amount of wine. He planned to bottle less reserve merlot than in recent years. But syrah in the cooler southern end of Napa Valley, said Havens, typically has less of a tendency toward uneven set and ripening than the Bordeaux varieties, and even in '98 shows the classic "high tones of white pepper and orchid" of cool-climate syrah.
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Michael Havens describes his '97s as "less muscular than the '96s-typical California in the best way, round and juicy," although he feels that the '96s will last longer. Interestingly, while many of his colleagues are beginning to place 1997 in the same category as '94 and '91 in terms of the ripeness and harmoniousness of the wines, Havens groups 1998 with '94 and '91, as the coolest years of the decade. Havens is making greater use of what he calls "punctual oxidation" for his merlot-the injection of small amounts of oxygen as needed, instead of normal racking, as is increasingly done in Bordeaux. He believes that this approach preserves the freshness and texture of the wine and binds less sulfur.
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