1999 Merlot Reserve Carneros Napa Valley

Wine Details
Producer

Havens

Place of Origin

United States

Napa Valley

Color

Red

Grape/Blend

Merlot

Reviews & Tasting Notes

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Michael Havens compares his '99s to his '97s, which he describes as pleasantly ripe, with a positive earthiness. The 2000s, with more power and ripeness, resemble the '96s, he adds. The samples of 2000 merlot I tasted included no cabernet franc. The early-picked franc went into the Bourriquot cuvee but the franc harvested during cold mid-October weather was not phenolically ripe enough to use. Punctual oxidation (the injection of small amounts of oxygen as needed, instead of normal racking) is now standard procedure here, especially during the wine first months in barrel. According to Havens, this approach, increasingly used in Bordeaux, boosts the reductive capacity of the phenolic chains and helps the wine develop a more sophisticated tannic structure.

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The problem in '98 in general, according to Havens, is a lack of mid-palate sweetness and roundness, and the presence of green tannins in so many wines. "The character of the vintage was determined by the damp, cool spring weather," Havens pointed out, "and the skins were less consistently ripe than we're used to seeing." Havens thus did a severe selection among his multiple lots, ultimately selling off a substantial amount of wine. He planned to bottle less reserve merlot than in recent years. But syrah in the cooler southern end of Napa Valley, said Havens, typically has less of a tendency toward uneven set and ripening than the Bordeaux varieties, and even in '98 shows the classic "high tones of white pepper and orchid" of cool-climate syrah.